Saturday, August 29, 2015

Whose can of worms? A Lebanese protest movement confronts apathy, trash and rampant corruption

For Lebanese over a certain age, the 2005 Cedar Revolution marked the biggest turning point in their (political) lives. A common refrain of many who participated was that this was the first time they felt truly Lebanese (as opposed to identifying solely or principally with one’s sect). Yet while the region’s first ‘velvet’ uprising forced an end to the 29-year Syrian occupation, the ‘revolution’ was stillborn. Within weeks of the Syrians’ departure, several of the civil war-era’s most prominent warlords whose ambitions Damascus had more or less repressed returned from prison (Samir Geagea) or exile (Michel Aoun) to try and finish in peace what they could not achieve in war.

More than a decade later, this class of septua- and octogenarian strongmen still dominates Lebanese political life. And rather than bring a hundred flowers to blossom, the Cedar Revolution triggered a relative closing of the Lebanese political mind. In its wake, two intransigent political blocks emerged (March 8 and March 14), each with heavily sectarian constituencies; backed by competing foreign powers; lacking much in the realm of ideas; and marred by perpetual volte face, personal vendettas and infighting tit-for-tats. (Sound familiar?) And if the 2006 Lebanon War greatly exacerbated tensions between them, the ongoing war in Syria has blown them out of all proportion.

At least on paper. Upon closer reflection, the war in Syria has also provided excellent cover for Lebanon’s political class to run roughshod over the constitution and conveniently ignore many of the state’s most basic responsibilities. Since April 2014, Parliament has failed to elect a president. And in November of that same year, that same body voted to extend its own mandate in office by an additional two years and seven months, delaying elections until 2017 with the swipe of a finger. It was the second time this group of lawmakers – elected in 2009 to ostensibly four-year terms – voted to extend their “stay” in office. The first was in May 2013, when they cited similar fears that holding elections posed too much of a ‘security risk.’ Nay, they have not given one half of two shits for many years. 

Thus do the Lebanese now find themselves with no executive; a corrupt, unconstitutional and self-serving legislature; and a judiciary whose penchant for trying civilians in military courts grows in proportion to the conflict in Syria.

Given the regional backdrop of chaos and counter-revolution, most Lebanese grin and bear it. After all, dysfunction almost always trumps destruction. This summer, however, things have taken a turn for the worse – or the better, depending on how Chernychevskian one is. After a ‘trash crisis’ that began in July in which much of Beirut was buried under mounds of rotting refuse, a rapidly growing number of people finally began to say khalas.

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Thanks for this development should go to Sukleen, the waste management company that has enjoyed controversial monopoly rights over trash collection in Beirut and Mt Lebanon for the past 18 years. When an already much-disputed contract between Sukleen, the government and residents living near the company’s principal landfill in Naameh (a village south of Beirut) expired on 17 July, residents shut down the roads leading to the landfill. For Sukleen had also been ‘dancing on their nerves’ for many years, to quote a future Lebanese leader. What was meant to be a six-year contract from 1997-2003 and receive 2m tons of waste was (extra-extra-legally) extended by 12 years. It now contains 15m tons.

Once a picturesque valley, the landfill in Naameh is now a 650ft mountain. If winds are blowing from the west, residents cannot leave their homes until the evening when the stench has receded. A physician who founded the Department of Emergency Medicine at the American University of Beirut’s Medical Center found that local inhabitants had blood cancer rates four times higher than the baseline population. Of course, inhabitants of Naameh needn’t medical studies to know they are dying from a mountain of toxic waste snuck into their backyard (where hither they’d go hiking). One resident compared the landfill to the 1982 Israeli invasion, which also destroyed the village: “Either the landfill goes, or we do. There isn’t enough room for us both.”

When residents finally shut down the road to the landfill the day its contract ended in mid-July, Sukleen retaliated by simply stopping their garbage collection in Beirut and Mt Lebanon. Coinciding with a heat wave, the air in Beirut rapidly became noxious, and many of the capital’s inhabitants began suffering from skin rashes and respiratory problems (in a country where everyone already gloriously chain smokes, this is saying something). Visible for miles, a dark yellow haze hovered over the city as people took to setting fire to hundreds of mounds of plastic, shit and festering urban sludge – not only along its principal thoroughfares, but also on the corners of boogie tree-lined residential neighborhoods. It was sad and utterly dystopian, but strangely beautiful. Cormac McCarthy meets John le Carré, a front-seat for the end times – and they’re not half bad. At least the bottle shops still have electricity.  

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A highly visible part of the city’s fabric, Sukleen has long since come under attack from the general public. Granted monopoly rights to collect the capital’s trash since 1994, the company embodies much of what is controversial about the rash of privatizations of public services that occurred in the 1990s in the Yeltsinesque free-for-all that followed the Lebanese civil war. Under constant fire for unauthorized dumping, failure to recycle, unsanitary and unlawful landfill practices, Sukleen has also long since been the object of public scorn for ripping off municipalities with rampant price gouging. Though Sukleen operates throughout the Middle East, the Lebanese pay far more for waste disposal ($130/ton of garbage) than their counterparts in Amman ($38) or Cairo ($20). Nor has Sukleen ever competed for any of these contracts: its owner is a long-time friend of former Prime Ministers Rafic Hariri (father) and Saad Hariri (son) and has long-standing ties to their Future Movement (FM) party and other leading cabinet members and parliamentarians.

All things considered, it is not that surprising that people have finally taken to the streets: clean air is a ‘commodity’ that even the most resolutely un-politicized, middle class pessimist still relies upon, and the Lebanese, notorious for “coping with any situation” to a fault, can be no more resourceful in the face of poisonous air than anyone else. Then again, as another associate starkly put it: “I haven’t got time for taking rubber bullets in the tummy. Nor do I for senseless protests. Assassinations will be much quicker and cleaner.”

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Hence the curiously powerful new movement that has emerged in recent weeks as the single biggest challenge to Lebanon’s fractious and paralyzed socio-political system in a decade. Though more or less leaderless, unorganized and lacking any actionable platform, the YouStink movement – which began by targeting Sukleen and the politicians whose pockets it lines but since expanded to include a whole checklist of widespread grievances – has Lebanon’s normally complacent political class in its most serious bind in years.

Last weekend alone, more than 20,000 people turned out in downtown Beirut’s Riad al-Solh Square to call for the resignation of senior cabinet members such as Prime Minster Salal Tammam and the ministers of the interior and environment. Convening in front of the Grand Serail, the Ottoman-era Government Palace that houses the president of the council of ministers, it was not long before protestors were met with violence. Over the course of two days, more than 75 people were injured by tear gas and rubber bullets. Protesters lobbed bottles of water and the occasional stone; police responded by firing live rounds into the air. (Which part of gentrified downtown Beirut the stray bullets fell is anybody’s guess). On one exciting occasion, an officer chased a young man with a parking meter wrenched from the sidewalk. The hoses were refreshing; the stones lobbed by the police back into the crowd of women, children and chicken-hearted American decidedly less so. Far more playful was the plastic chair that made its way back and forth between the demonstrators and the police. Political scientists are calling it the “beach-ball effect” and are saying it could work wonders in the rest of the region.


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Meanwhile, the country’s leading politicians have been scrambling to respond in their usual Panglossian way: by supporting both the protestors and the government more or less in equal measure. The MP, leader of the Druze community and head of the Progressive Socialist Party, Walid Jumblatt openly supported YouStink one day, before condemning it the next. A notorious turncoat for decades, he still occasionally outdoes himself. Not to be outdone, the two irascible Maronite Christians contending for the (vacant) presidency both claimed their ‘solidarity’ with YouReek. Even Prime Minister (and acting President) Tammam Salam, for whom protestors have reserved a great deal of their ire, expressed his sympathy. With characteristic magnanimity, he then added that everyone should be held responsible for the “excessive force [against] civil society and the [public].”

Unfortunately, the one leader who could not be reached was interior minister Nouhad Machnouk, then vacationing abroad. The very moment things started really heating up in downtown Beirut, a now-widely shared video surfaced of him dancing with young bikini-clad women at a beachside bar in Mykonos, laughing and sporting a ridiculous backwards cap. On Monday morning, however, he was back to work, bald and floppy in suit and tie, coordinating the construction of a concrete blast wall to fortify the Government Palace and put a physical barrier between the government and its mass of enraged citizens. Once it became clear this ‘wall of shame’ was only “enabling” the YouStink constituents’ artistic urges, it was taken down the following day.

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For those too young to have partaken in the Cedar Revolution, the YouStink movement feels like a kind of turning point for many of the country’s young, urban, educated and politically discontented. For the first time since 2005, one hears people from every (religious not social) background exuberantly saying, “this weekend was the first time in my life I felt truly Lebanese.” Not only did those who protested represent a wide spectrum of Lebanon’s mosaic of 17 religious sects; crucially, there were no visible signs or audible expressions of loyalty to any of the traditional political parties or movements. And while people in the 30s, 40s and 50s were also highly represented, a large number of young families also brought their children to the protests, braving tear gas and hoses in the process.

Though encouraging, these signs of cross-sectarian unity mask an underlying malaise. For any observer, one of the single biggest questions is that of socio-economic participation: the vast majority of people present this weekend were ‘educated’ – which is code for ‘middle class’ – i.e. code for ‘not from the city’s (Sunni and Shia) slums.’ As a leading protestor told your correspondent, the biggest challenge for YouStink’s organizers – apart from apathy, tear gas, rubber bullets and concrete blast walls erected around the Grand Serail – is finding a way for the movement to better connect with the ‘street’ – that is, the young men and women from Tariq el-Jdideh (a working-class Sunni neighborhood) and Dahiye (a sprawling, often-impoverished and mostly Shia area in the southern suburbs of Beirut under Hezbollah’s de facto ‘jurisdiction’).

Unless they can make common cause with Lebanon’s undereducated and truly disenfranchised, the movement will lack the mass base necessary to overcoming the caudillo curry of throwing peanuts at communal flunkies. One should remember: the impetus for the demonstrations was to protest not only the mounting trash crisis, but the fact there’s no president, perennial electricity shortages and chronic corruption all around. Bourgeois concerns? Not always: while Beirut has mandatory 3-hour daily power outages, the countryside has 6- or 9-hour outages. Whatever the case, YouStink’s organizers, one of whom is Druze and the other is Shia, must agree that the movement’s success is as likely to hinge on cross-class collaboration as it is cross-sectarian solidarity. Rubbish clearly divides people from their governments; but is it enough to unite Lebanese from widely differing socio-economic backgrounds?

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The other looming question is the rash of conspiracy theories now making the rounds. Who stands to gain from the ‘unrest’? And which ominous puppet-master is pulling the strings? Many whisper that Hezbollah is tacitly behind them, since any opposition to the current government increases the odds of their ally and preferred candidate, former general and leader of the Free Patriotic Movement, Michel Aoun, of assuming the presidency. In any case, the extent to which Hezbollah has remained silent on the issue, neither condemning nor condoning the protests, has been striking. Its TV station Al-Manar neglected to cover much of the protests – though in all fairness, the left-leaning Al-Jadeed is the only one that did – and Nasrallah has remained intriguingly reticent as to whether or not he supports this deluge of public opposition to a government he has excoriated for years.

Oddly and ominously, the second major fear is the overwhelming consensus among demonstrators that Nabbih Berri, the (Shia) Speaker of Parliament since 1992 and long-time rival of Hezbollah, is behind the protests turning violent. As the man who holds the creaky parliamentarian system together, he stands to lose the most. Hence the appearance of dozens, if not hundreds, of shirtless rude boys showing up in masks, clutching sticks and stones, and donning 6-inch necklaces in the shape of swords.[1] In addition to giving hell to the police and army, they put the better-dressed protestors, many of whom were doused in perfume and cologne, very ill at east.


Whatever the case, most can agree that a step in the right direction has been made. The important thing, a thoughtful but pessimistic protestor told me, is to not lose sight of the broader struggle – the establishment of a secular democratic republic whose government is accountable to all its citizens. For in Lebanon, she forewarns, “Every moment in our lives is the illusion of a fake victory. Every time I take a shower and the water is hot, it’s a fake victory. Every time I hit the switch and the light comes on, it’s a fake victory. All our lives are spent in a poisonous cloud of fake victories.”

But many Lebanese now seem hungry for more than fake victories. In a little-publicized story, a young man immolated himself in Saida, Lebanon’s third-biggest city, in one of many copycat protests that broke out across the country last weekend. (For the bleeding hearts among you: police doused him with water before he could become a ‘martyr’). Another young man traveled all the way from the South to Beirut to take part in the downtown demonstrations. In a television interview, he explained how he had come to the capital explicitly against his father’s wishes; the latter preferred for his son to go and fight in Syria (for Assad). As he told the journalist, “Excuse me, father, but why would I fight in Syria when I can fight for my own people in Lebanon?”

They have called for even bigger protests this very afternoon – in addition to solidarity rallies being held in Berlin, Washington, Detroit and Montreal. I don’t know about you, but I gots a bus to catch downtown.




[1] A practice common among Shia to commemorate the death in battle of Hussein